(Details for perfectionists - big titles only, for people in a rush)

1. Flaten the scratch with f. e. a cutter knive

- Remove lose base-parts.
- Remove lose wood-and fiberglass parts etc.
- Cut the slope edges of the scratch straight to 90°.
- Flaten bulged base area.
- Also if it is heart-breaking: making the scratch deeper will increase the bonding and simplify the handling.

2. Roughen the scratch with sandpaper (only helpful for fine scratches)

3. Clean and dry the scratch

- Remove dust etc. with a brush or a vacuum cleaner.
- Remove grease etc. with f. e. acetone and let it dry.
- The scratch has to be dry, to continue with the next step.

4. Pour the basepowder into the scratch an press it firmly 

Scratches, less than 2mm in depth :

Pour the basepowder from the bottle directly into the scratch (fine dust, do not inhale). Fill it as even as possible to the base, but allways a little bit higher an also a little bit over the edges of the scratch.  If you take too few, the result can be an uneven base.  You can repair that with a second layer. If you take to much, it can be more than 2mm in thickness, what can lower the bonding in the lowest level of the repair area. 

 Press the basepowder firmly with f. e. a cutterknive.

Scratches, deeper than 2mm (very thick bases or holes from the bindings…):

Work in 2 (or more) layers (otherwise it could lower the bonding in the lowest level of the repair area. First pour the basepowder from the bottle directly into the scratch (fine dust, do not inhale),

 but not higher than 2mm and that enough space for a second layer will remain. 

Than drip the baseglue on the basepowder, a few drops are enough, the basepowder has to be imbued by the baseglue. When the basglue drops off, its enough. 

Dont inhale the fumes. Use only outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.

Start with the next layer immediately. For the last layer see above instructions.

5. Drip the baseglue on the basepowder

Drip the baseglue on the basepowder, a few drops are enough, the basepowder has to be imbued by the baseglue. When the basglue drops off, its enough. Dont inhale the fumes. Use only outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.

 Dont let drop the baseglue from to high to prevent dropholes in the basepowder. Letting the baseglue flow in from the side can sometimes be easier. 

6. Scratch off excess material

- Scratching can be started immediately after step 5. 
- To Prevent pollutions of your tools, wipe off the rest from the baseglue with a tissue. 

- Scratch off the first layer of excess material f. e. with a cutter knive, or a rough file. Take care off not to damage the surroundig base. 
- Scratch of the rest with fe. e. a metallblade. Scratch from the inside of the repair area to the outside. Start with low pressure and step by step increase the pressure, the more even the repair area gets. The sharper your tool is, the better finish you will get:

Insider tip: With a pull-blade-scraper (available on our webshop) this job (and other base works) can be done perfectly. 

Finished – Go Skiing

Tips:

Opening of the basegluebottle: Take a needle f. e. to puncture the bottle, or us a knive or a pliers. If you cut it, remember, that the more you cut, the wider the hole and the shorter the tip gets. Just cut the minimum.  Take care, that no glue spraies out and will damage something around (also your eyes or skin!). Especially on higher elevations, the bottle can be under pressure.

Storage of the baseglue and the basepowder: Cool and dry!

Application to fill the holes from bindings:
With Eiselin Ski Base Repair you also can fill the old holes from the bindings. You have to work with several layers. Then you will get a result, many times more solid than the classic repair with plastic bolts. You will be able to drill a thread directly inside the repairmaterial. So you probaly can drill the new holes closer to the old ones (check with your local regulations) and that will weaken the ski a lot less.